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Heigh ho, heigh ho, it's off to sea we go (1 June-18 June 2013)

08 · 15 June 2013

On June 1st we disconnected the electrical cable, untied Arbutus's dock lines, and said farewell to our safe and comfortable harbour of Carentan. There were no butterflies in my stomach...only seasickness pills :)
Photo souvenir avant le
Photo souvenir avant le "grand" départ - June 1st, departure day.
Arbutus looks great after you look past the dull, ruff, and worn aluminum exterior, and she may be the ugly duckling when you see her docked next to the sleak and polished Beneteaus, but she is strong, she is fast, and she will take us far. Arbutus has been recently fitted with a new dodger thanks to the hard work of Paul, Paul's cousin Jérôme, and Paul's dad Daniel. The dodger has changed my life on the boat tremendously because I am able to stay outside in the cockpit without freezing my butt off. We are protected from the fridged winds, rain, and spray. Read about the dodger Before our official departure we went on a short four day cruise from Carentan >Port-en-Bessin >Le Havre >Honfleur >Carentan to test out the new dodger. I was in Canada for two and a half weeks at the end of April and beginning of May and I researched all of the remedies to prevent seasickness and discovered new ones that I haven't tried. So during our four day sail I tested them all and none of them worked. I felt super defeated. I'm still taking ginger root tablets and chewing peppermint gum which seem to be helping.  Despite the painful puking episodes I still enjoyed the short cruise from Le Havre to Honfleur (we used the engine the whole time for two hours) and our visit to Honfleur. The lock at Honfleur closed just a few minutes before we arrived so we had to wait 20 mins before the lock opened again to reach the harbour. I took this opportunity to take pictures of Arbutus waiting to enter the lock.
Sas de Honfleur
Sas de Honfleur - Waiting for the lock to open at Honfleur
This was our second time visiting Honfleur, but the first time we got there by car. I think we are really lucky to explore a city and arrive by sailboat. Because our sailboat is our home we still have all (most) of the comforts of home and the scenery around us keeps changing. Honfleur's small harbour is in the middle of the city and it is surrounded by restuaurants, bars and buildings on three sides. We decided to stop at the dock just before the harbour where we were sandwhiched by the English.
Port de Honfleur
Port de Honfleur
Port de Honfleur
Port de Honfleur
There are also some fishing  boats in Honfleur harbour.
Honfleur, port de pêche
Honfleur, port de pêche
A ridiculously oversized pleasure boat arrived in the harbour and was circling to find a spot. Finally it came up behind the reasonably sized English pleasure boat that was docked behind us. Paul ran up to the road to take their lines while I took pictures. Paul said the two crew members were French, the boat was from Jersey, and they wanted to work on the boat in Le Havre. I heard a terrible cracking noise when they touched the wall. Their buoys were not high enough.
Un Yacht immense un peu bizarre, à Honfleur
Un Yacht immense un peu bizarre, à Honfleur -  Ridiculosly oversized pleasure boat
Honfleur
Honfleur
We left Honfleur around 9am to go back to Carentan. It was a long bloody sail...It rained, there were force six winds, and I was cold. During the force six winds I was still in the cockpit. The only reason I was able to remain outside was because of the cockpit. It is my shelter. Eventhough I was outside I was still pretty useless. I felt bad so I had my eyes closed and my arms crossed to keep myself warm while Paul was trying to keep control of Arbutus. At one point he had to completely stop Arbutus because he couldn't control her any longer. After the strong wind passed we continued to Carentan. I think we arrived at 11:30pm. I was freezing and not in a good mood...but we were back the safe harbour of Carentan. We had electricity and I was huddled next to our small space heater with a warm cup of miso soup in my hands and contemplated how I will be able to sail for the next four years... The day after we bid farewell to some of our neighbours in the harbour. A group of them are sailing to Ireland. Anne-Sophie and Guillaume even set sail with their new born baby!!! I am in awe of the two of them. Paul has a hard enough time taking care of me when I am sick hahahaha.
Départ des copains de ponton
Départ des copains de ponton - Our friends leaving for Ireland
It was a beautiful day to go sailing and we were anxious to finish the last preparations before we could start our trip.
Tchao Oléo, à la prochaine !
A la prochaine ! - And they are off!
Bon vent pour l'Ecosse !
Bon vent pour l'Ecosse ! - Say hello to Ireland for us!
One evening there wasn't a lot of wind so we took advantage and rolled the genoa on it's furler.
Montage du génois
Montage du génois - The genoa
Paul working hard to attach another antena and I just finished hanging a load of hand washed laundry. I used all of the skills I learned in Kenya :)
Derniers bricolages, et lessives
Derniers bricolages, et lessives - Final installations and preparations
In the French sailing world it's bad luck to set sail on a Friday so we chose to leave on Saturday June 1st, 2013.
Photo souvenir avant le
Photo souvenir avant le "grand" départ - An important photo of us on departure day.
There was one person at the lock to send us off :)
Tchao Carentan !
Tchao Carentan ! - Thanks for the memories Carentan!
I take the helm during a day of perfect sailing conditions.
Sundy aux commandes
Sundy aux commandes - Look one hand!
We spent our first night anchored at Saint-Vaast, and the second night anchored at Cherbourg.
Entrée à la voile dans la grande rade de Cherbourg
Entrée à la voile dans la grande rade de Cherbourg - Entering the grande rade of Cherbourg
Third anchorage at Alderney,  most northerly Channel Island.
2% de la population des fous de Bessan pris en 1 seule photo
2% de la population des fous de Bessan pris en 1 seule photo
Arbutus anchored in the South of Alderney.
Arbutus seul au milieu de tant de caillou
Arbutus seul au milieu de tant de caillou - Arbutus alone in the middle of all the rocks
Dans l'arrière plan, les courants sauvages du Swing (N de Alderney)
Dans l'arrière plan, les courants sauvages du Swing (N de Alderney)
From Alderney we sailed to the island of Jersey where we stopped in the luxurious harbour. My shower was amazing! The island was lively and we had a pint at a very British pub. We spent only one night on Jersey and left the next morning for St. Malo. Goodbye English speaking people...Our arrival into Saint-Malo was unforgettable. There were rocks everywhere and red and green navigational markers were immense.
Entrée magique dans Saint-Malo
Entrée magique dans Saint-Malo - Entering Saint-Malo
_DSC0614 We sailed and motored up The Rance river to Dinan. Sailing up the river was pleasant and peaceful.
On s'occupe comme on peut
On s'occupe comme on peut - The entertainment onboard
There was only one other sailboat just ahead of us on the river.
Remontée de la Rance à la voile !
Remontée de la Rance à la voile ! - Sailing up river to Dinan
We spent two days and one night in the historical town of Dinan.
Arbutus à Dinan
Arbutus à Dinan - Arbutus in Dinan
Instead of paying for another night at Dinan we motored 20mins down river and stopped at the river's edge to spend the night. The rain poured that night but we were comfortable inside.
Départ de Dinan sous des nuages menaçants
Départ de Dinan sous des nuages menaçants - Leaving Dinan under the ominous clouds
_DSC0680 Hiding underneath the dodger kept us dry from the rain. Pluies diluviennes When we passed under this bridge we were a little worried for the mast ... Passage d'un pont un peu stressant ... We had to wait for the lock to open before going to Saint-Malo so we visitied the small town of  Souillac.
Rampe d'accostage à Souillac
Rampe d'accostage à Souillac - Me and the dinghy
We had to go through the lock to reach Saint-Malo. We spent the evening in the awesome city of Saint-Malo where we got to dine on Mussels and french fries. _DSC0706 _DSC0715 _DSC0743 _DSC0750 _DSC0754 The next morning we left for The island of Bréhat where we attempted our first beaching of Arbutus.
Ile de Bréhat
Ile de Bréhat - Island of Brehat
Bréhat jolie
Bréhat jolie
Confection du pain
Confection du pain - Paul making bread...it's always so messy
La première mouette qui a chié sur Arbutus
La première mouette qui a chié sur Arbutus - This little bastard took a shit on our solar pannel
Arbutus dans 15 cm d'eau
Arbutus dans 15 cm d'eau - Arbutus in 15 cm of water
On cherche à manger dans le sable ...
On cherche à manger dans le sable ... - We didn't find any clams
We left the island of Bréhat for Roscoff where we spent two nights under the rain. But we finally had internet and I was able to talk to my dad :) Our next stop was the island of  Batz where we beached Arbutus for the second time. We met a nice French couple Pascal and Monique who invited us onboard their yacht to have a drink and chat.
Sundy qui remonte la quille avant l'échouage sur l'ile de Batz
Sundy qui remonte la quille avant l'échouage sur l'ile de Batz - I'm slowly lifing the keel before we beach
Arbutus échoué sur l'ile de Batz
Arbutus échoué sur l'ile de Batz - Arbutus beached on the island of Batz
made by Sundra Nagai
made by Sundra Nagai - I took advantage of the unique situation to take some long exposures of Arbutus
Our next stop was Brignogan-sur-Plages where we are currently anchored and waiting for the wind to die down. We will leave tomorrow and make our way to Camaret where we will rock climb!!!
Le poulpe qui nbage dans 50 cm d'eau, c'est moi, Paul.
Le poulpe qui nage dans 50 cm d'eau, c'est moi, Paul. - Paul diving to make sure Arbutus does not settle on any rocks
Mouillage à Brignogan-plages
Mouillage à Brignogan-plages - Beached at Brignogan-Plages
Paul wrote about these same days, in French, from his side of the boat. Read his account →

Your messages

Original comments, kept as they were.

Angie2013-06-15
Wow, Sun, it looks like you're seeing so much and experiencing so many things. Good for you. Be safe
in reply to Angie
Sundy2013-06-20
Hope to share some of the great moments with you Ang.
Fillie2013-06-15
Alors, vous êtes partis... On vous suit sur Arbutus Bon vent Dominique
Brenna2013-06-15
<3 sounds like the trip has started well! How was the climbing?
in reply to Brenna
Sundy2013-06-20
Hey Brenna! The scenery was amazing. We were climbing right next to the water, I lead some easy routes, and Paul climbed some easy trad. More climbing in the Med COME!!!
Clément Arnaud2013-06-15
Trop bon, ça fait plaisir de vous lire!! J'ai pensé à toi ces jours-ci. Le beau temps arrive, je vais aller m'acheter un tapis pour le block et aller m'éclater à Fontainebleau :-) Bon vent à vous!! Vivement le prochain billet !!
in reply to Clément Arnaud
PT2013-06-29
Salut Arnaud, Finalement, nous n'avons pas emmené le crash pad avec nous. Si tu veux, je peux demander à ma maman de t'envoyer le crash chez toi. Dis moi si ça t'intéresse. A+
ligia2013-06-16
So beautiful, so many nice places :D i love the picture where Sundra is sailing! She looks strong :)
in reply to ligia
Sundy2013-06-20
Hey Amiga, it's the angle of the picture, it's very missleading.
poyer catherine2013-06-17
nous rentrons de vendée (puy du fou) tous ensemble : cath, fab anthony caro, émilie vincent et les 4 petits. nous avons lu vos premiers récits le long de la route tous ensemble. pensons bien à vous biz à vous deux.