Saint Jean de Luz to Baiona (3 July - 20 July 2013)

The sail from La Rochelle to Saint Jean de Luz took us around 36 hours in agitated waters. So we were ecstatic when we arrived in Saint Jean de Luz where we took a mouring bouey for the night. The next morning we anchored closer to the beach and city. Summer vacation just began and we enjoyed the charming city with the rest of the vacationers. One day we took a short bus ride to the base of the Rhune mountain where we hiked to the summit. The hike was steep but thankfully not too long. When we reached the top we were greeted by the hords of tourists who took the cable car up...I was tempted to take it back down but the decent was a lot easier and more enjoyable. We hitch hiked back to Saint Jean de Luz, it was my first time hitch hiking, and I wasn't feeling hopeful after a multitude of cars passed us...but a kind old woman finally gave us a ride. Paul used the solar shower that night at the stern of the boat and I was more discret and took mine in the cockpit.

Au revoir France, Hola Spain!!! Our first stop in Northern Spain was in a small fishing port of Lekeitio. When we entered the small port we didn't see many visiting boats just two French boats tied to each other and attached to the wall. We approached them and asked if we could tie onto them, (à couple in French...I don't know the correct term in English) but they shockingly said no and told us to tie up to the fishing boat behind them. We tried to locate the Port office, but we were unsuccessful. So we verrified with a kind shop owner who sold nautical gear to see if we could keep Arbutus where she was. He said it was ok and soon after the port master came by and asked us to fill out some paper work. The entire time we were trying to communicate with our pathetic Spanish skills. The shop owner spoke a little French thankfully. The price to stay at the port....free! We explored the town and asked tourist information office if it was possible to go to Picos de Europa. She told us we were pretty far. We wanted to find a safe harbour to keep Arbutus for two nights while we climbed in Picos and we decided it would be Santender, a big harbour closer to Picos.The town was great with many restaurants and bars around the port and the beach was a ten minute walk from the boat. The only disappointment was the tapas...not so yummy. After breakfast and grocery shopping we sailed towards Santender but the wind wasn't with us...it was nonexistent...so we had to use the engine for a good part of the sail. We decided to anchor at Castro Urdiales for the night and unfortunately didn't go on land. The nexmorning we continued West to Santender yet again with the engine. The winds finally came out of hiding when we were aproaching Santander...perfect timing. We hoisted the sails for the last 40 minutes then anchored close to the Island of Magdalena where the Spanish were enjoying their vacation on the beach.

Again in Santender they advised us to go closer to Picos for easier access (we didn't have a car) and for hiking information. We found a busy bar where the tapas were decent and the service and atmoshpere were fantastic. Next stop dinner. A warm and friendly smile enticed us inside a family restaurant where we ordered paella from the short, raspy voiced grandfather. I loved him. When he asked how the food was and we answered "muy bien" he was beaming. I couldn't be honest and tell him I dreaded to put more food in my mouth because it was too oily and salty. We had and eventful second night at he anchorage...just before going to bed we felt a huge jolt. The keel touched the bottom!!! Paul freaked out but I remained calm...or maybe it was the other way around...We jumped in the cockpit, turned on the engine, lifted the anchor, and drove further from the shore. We were aware that low tide was at 1 am like the previous night so we think maybe we touched rock. Nothing was damaged thankfully.

Our next stop in Llanes was unplanned and so far it has been one of the most memorable. When we arrived we were greeted by the harbour master who spoke no English or French, but we were still able to communicate through hand gestures and the few Spanish words and phrases we knew. We wanted to stay for three nights and asked how much it would be and he said nada, nothing. We were warned the harbours in Northern Spain are expensive, but so far we didn't see any evidence of this. The harbour was in the heart of the city centre...man we were lucky to find this harbour. We found all the information we needed for Picos and in the evening we ate tapas. We had Fabada, a traditional Austurian stew of white beans, pork shoulder, black pudding, and chorizo. It was delicious.

Early the next moring we caught a bus that took us to the closest town to Picos. From there we hitch hiked to our departure 6km away. The hike was breathtaking and strenuous. Strenuous because I was carrying a 25 litre pack which held my super warm down sleeping bag and my toiletries while Paul was ONLY carrying a 50 litre back pack which held our hammocks, his sleeping bag, our food and water, the camping stove and propane, some climbing gear etc.

I was sad when we left Llanes in the evening...maybe because it would take us two nights to sail to A Coruña. The showers at A Coruña were incredible. I was able to regulate the temperature of the water!!!! Such a luxury. We stayed two days and one night and left in the evening at 11pm to go to Camarinas. The night sail was stressful with strong winds and the belt of the automatic piolet snapped of during my night watch. We made it safely to Camarinas where we dropped our anchor.

We left early the next morning to pass Cape Finisterre and we passed the cape without any problems. We anchored just infront of the city of Muros, a city filled with arched passage ways made of stone and fishmongers. We only got to see the city at night because we left early the next morning to go to Baiona.

Next stop Portugal!