Gran Canaria to La Gomera (17 Aug – 26 Sept 2014)

Gran Canaria pt 2 The departure of my sister signified the end of shopping and back to business working on the boat. It wasn't all work and no fun. We were able to see some of the island and go on a camping and climbing trip :). You can find all of your boating needs at Las Palmas, Gran Canaria and we took this opportunity to replace the steering cables...the cables that go from the wheel to the back of the boat to control the rudder. We also bought new batteries.. .not your ordinary AAA batteries for our head lamps, but boat batteries to provide electricity to our many electronics (which actually don't consume that much) and our greedy fridge. I started my first hand sewing project, a cover for our windlass :) I also took advantage of being in a marina with such luxurious facilities like running water, dock side! I washed all the foam/mattress covers which hadn't been washed since we left on our trip. I cringe every time we lazily put salty and damp sails in the forward cabin ON the mattresses and not in their compartments under the mattresses.

We organized a three day two night camping and climbing trip in Tamadaba National park. We spent the entire morning/afternoon using public transport and hitch hiking just to get there. After taking two buses we still had 17 km to go. With all of our camping and climbing gear, plus our food for three days and three litres of water we were a hot sweaty mess. Thankfully we got picked up by a nice Canarian couple who drove us 7 km, to the beginning of the only single lane dirt road to the campsite. I may be exaggerating...the road might have been two lanes and paved...maybe. Because there was so sign of any cars we had to walk...that lasted 1 km before I suggested we have lunch in the shade and drinks all the water we were carrying. Begrudgingly we started walking again and after 3 km we heard a car!! It was the park ranger's truck!! He stopped and told us to jump in the back...or something like that in Spanish. I was saved...Paul was even happy to get a ride.

The campground facilities were superb with clean toilets and a water source! Paul had the bright idea to take our empty solar shower. So after an afternoon climb we had a warm shower waiting for us. Sooooo nice!

To go back to Las Palmas we found a marked trail that took us down 1000 metres to the town of Agaete. Nearing the end of the hike the trail was super steep and my legs and knees were in so much pain...even when Paul offered to carry my back pack I still in a lot of pain!!! When we were back on flat ground my body didn't adjust right away. I was still in agony...the cerveza and tapas helped a little. We caught the bus back to Las Palmas where I was anxious to be back under the clouds...but can you believe it? Las Palmas was sunny when we arrived.

Our neighbour arrived from Belgium. Bots, a young musician and sailor with a great positive energy. He introduced us to a young Turkish couple!! Yes Turkish!! They have grand plans to sail to Patagonia and Antarctica!!! Check out their website...http://www.cahilcesareti.org/ The next two weeks were really special for me. We had friends!!! Young adventurous sailors whom we didn't have to say goodbye to right away. We also had an English/Belgium sailor skippering an American boat in our group. We spent most of our evenings together. It was great.

We got a professional hull cleaning from Paul's new friend. They met in the marina and this Canarian fellow...I don't remember his name...was looking for a sailing expertise to look at and sail with a steel boat he was interested in buying. AND somehow out of ALL of the hundreds of boats and captains in the marina he found Paul...who has three years of sailing expertise. So it was an exchange of services. No money exchanged :)

Regatta Time! Bots and his sailboat Mahala challenged Arbutus and her crew to a friendly regatta. Bots had to pick up two of his friends in Fuerteventura and thought it would be fun to have some company. My initial response was "No"...just no. Fuerteventura is going backwards...we just came from there!!! It was not in the right direction towards New Zealand (depending on how you look at it). But some how Paul and Bots convinced me to go...and I am so happy we joined the two boat regatta.

Danielle, a friend of Urgu and Malar sailed for her first time with Bots...and there was no competition. Arbutus was flying!!! We reduced our sails to let Mahala catch up and we took some great pics of each other. It was our first time sailing so close to another boat and it was just as exciting as seeing dolphins! Almost. Fun and happy times in the Canaries. Tenerife We adopted a Belgium woman! Danielle had such a great experience sailing with Bots and Mahala that she joined us when we sailed to Tenerife. Looks like she was meant to sail...she doesn't get seasick, the movement of the boat doesn't bother her when she sleeps...a new friendship with sailing was blossoming. In the end she sailed with us in Tenerife, La Gomera, and she joined us on our 6 day passage to Cape Verde. From Fuerteventura we sailed back to Las Palmas and beat Mahala for the second time. The next morning we wanted to sail to our next island Tenerife, but the wind had other plans. So we anchored at Puerto de las Nieves still on Gran Canaria.

The next day we sailed to Tenerife with wind and anchored for the night 7 nm north of Santa Cruz. We motored to the marina the next morning and were surprised to hear Mahala call us on the radio. They should have already been in the marina. Instead in the evening, just one nautical mile from the marina they decided to catch an enormous fishing net in their propeller and spent the entire night at sea avoiding land, boats, tankers, and other hazards without their engine. Ahhh...making memories that last a life time. Mahala and her crew were headed to Madeira the same day but before the set sail we were treated to a private concert, our prize for winning the regatta :)

  The following day we enjoyed the city and Sunday market...one of my favourite things about European cities are the different markets. In the afternoon we went back to the same anchorage as before where we awaited the arrival of Blue Belle and the Turks. Urgu, Malar, their two friends, and a freshly caught dorado fish!!

In the morning we sailed and anchored near Puerto de la Cruz after seeing with the dinghy that there was no way for Arbutus to enter the small port. Sooo many swimmers! We then sailed to Garachico and for the next week Arbutus was back in a marina where we were able to keep her safe while we hike/ camped, met Paul's stepmom's friend & family, and toured around. We were so disappointed though that our schedules didn't match up with the Turks because Urgu offered to take us paragliding!!! He is a paragliding instructor in Turkey. Hopefully later.

La Gomera We left Garachico and motor sailed towards La Gomera. When we reached the acceleration zone between the two islands there was enough wind to spit us over to our anchorage at Playa de la Guancha. Just as we were arriving Blue Belle was leaving to spend some time in San Sebastian. I guess they missed us though because the next morning they were our neighbour in the anchorage. That day we had a photo shoot! We hardly have any pictures of Arbutus sailing on the water with her sails hoisted and it was the same for Blue Belle. We are so grateful for the wonderful pictures Urgu and his friend took of us.

We spent a few days anchored in front of Playa Santiago before picking up Danielle from San Sebastian. She had to leave us for a week to organize herself to come with us to Cape Verde. We had to say farewell to Urgu and Malar...and I truely hope our paths cross again somewhere on the sea.

We moved and anchored at Valle Grand Rey where we went on a very productive and nourishing day hike. We picked green apples, figs, and someones hand trespassed through a fence to pick some grapes!! The night before we caught three dorado fish. We feasted that night. I love La Gomera!!! On our way back from our hike a nice German couple picked us up and showed us where to get tasty gelato.

I am Canadian! So I needed a departure stamp in my passport because we were leaving the Canaries..the EU. In our nautical guide and on two websites it says that at San Sebastian I am able to get my departure stamp. We needed to stop at the marina to shop for food and fill our water tanks so it we perfect....Until no one knew if I could get my departure stamp in La Gomera. The marina told us the port authorities could maybe give me a stamp. The port authority told us someone at City Hall has the stamp, and City Hall told us I needed to go to Los Cristianos, Tenerife. We insisted that they verify for certain that I can get my stamp at Los Cristianos and after an hour the gentleman informs us the closest place to get my stamp is Santa Cruz, Tenerife. It took the entire morning just to know where I could get my departure stamp!!! It was a short sail from La Gomera to Los Cristianos and in the morning I took the bus to Santa Cruz. The bus only cost 16 euros there and back!...but I got my departure stamp. I really wonder if it was necessary. Does anybody know? A French captain, a Belgium who started sailing just a few weeks ago, and a seasick Canadian are ready to sail to Cape Verde!!