Rabat, Morocco to Gran Canaria (5 July – 16 Aug 2014)
19 · 21 October 2014
When we arrived in Rabat, Morocco we called the marina on the VHF for permission to enter. We asked if there was enough water in the river for our boat to enter. They said yes and they sent out a boat to fetch us. We had a personal escort into the marina :)
Following our escort up the Bouregreg river to the marina.We arrived Sunday afternoon and there was a lot of activity on the river.
For me Morocco meant the arrival of my sister Angie from Canada :). She traveled over 24 hours from Vancouver, Canada to Rabat, Morocco and she was exhausted when we met her at the train station. We didn't give her the chance to rest but threw her in the dinghy to see the authorities who were waiting for her across the marina. We had to declare her as a new crew member.
The guest cabinThe boat taxi from Salé to RabatLocal fishing boats on the Bouregreg riverMarket in RabatVisiting the Tour Hassan in Rabat.
Angie isn't the most adventurous person so even her first dingy ride made her nervous. She squealed in fear that the dinghy would tip over.
Together we took the train inland to Fes where we visited the tanneries, got lost in the maze of pedestrian streets in the medina (old city), and bargained for souvenirs.
The pottery of FesFes is famous for their potteryGetting lost in the medina.Tourists can still eat in the afternoon during RamadanLeather tanneries in FesLeather tanneries in FesLeather tanneries in FesThe medina (the old city)The medina (the old city)
It so happened that we were visiting Morocco during Ramadan. We tried to stay as discreet as possible and tried not to eat or drink in public, so when we were in the marina we hid inside the boat to eat our meals. We did all our shopping with the local food vendors and we ate very well for very cheap.
We didn't want to take it easy on Angie...so for her FIRST EVER sailing trip we did an overnight passage from Rabat to El Jadida. So sorry Angie...
Our dad has a small fishing boat and Angie reassured me that she didn't think she would get seasick because she never got sick on our dad's boat. Turns out seasickness runs in the family. On every single passage, long and short, from Rabat to our last stop with her at Grand Canaria, Angie felt sick...and I felt horrible to see her in this condition. I was proud that she dealt with it the best she could and she hardly ever complained....except once when we were anchored and she asked, “It feels like we are still sailing...are we still sailing?”.
When we arrived in El Jadida we were dumbfounded to learn that we had to pay 24 euros to ANCHOR in the small fishing harbour. Luckily the surroundings were vibrant and lively.
El JadidaThe fishing port of El JadidaAnchored in El Jadida
Because Angie had so much fun laying down for 24 hours during her first sail we thought we would make her happy again....so her second sail was another overnighter. Hahahaha. We sailed...or rather engined to Essaouira.
No wind on our sail to EssaouiraAnchored in EssaouiraEntry into the port via dinghymmmm sounds tasty
And for Angie's third sail...two overnights!!!! From Essaouira to Graciosa, Canary islands. This sail killed me as well. We had the wind in our back and the boat was rolling (for me) a lot from side to side...so both sisters were laying handicapped from seasickness. Thankfully the captain was still in good form and took care of us. We wanted to arrive in the morning when there was some daylight so Paul had to slow down the boat to make the timing just right....However we still arrived in the night...at around 5am. Luckily, there was a security guard who told us where we could dock.
We loved Graciosa...because the Spanish didn't practice Ramadam....just kidding. The small island was picturesque with a holiday feel (without the huge resorts).
Caleta del Sebo marina on GraciosaOur walk around the islandHello Graciosa
Our next stop was Arrecife, Lanzarote where the two Canadians had to get their entry stamp. We arrived at the anchorage on Friday afternoon and the office is only open Mon-Fri from 8am-1pm-ish. It was a nightmare just trying to find the office...no one knew what we were talking about.
Arrecife, Lanzarote
From Arrecife we sailed to Lobos island where we met Alain. One of the most colourful, talkative, energetic, and kind persons I've met. And he didn't hide anything from us. Paul met his silicone girlfriend (made in Japan) and he wasn't shy or embarrassed to talk about or show pictures of her. I genuinely liked him.
Alain sporting a loin cloth!!! When we invited him for dinner he put on a shirt and shorts.View from the light house on Lobos islandLobos island
Angie made cookies and scones while we were on anchor at Lobos and just as the last batch of cookies came out of the oven Babeth and Eric (a French couple who we first met in Rabat, Morocco) showed up. Earlier that day Alain gave us some fresh fish he caught and so we invited everyone on board for dinner.
Before we arrived in Gran Canaria we stopped at Corralejo, Grande Tarajal, Morro Jable, and Punta Jandia.
Anchored in Gran Tarajal, FuerteventuraCloud waves!!! What does this mean in terms of wind?Our French friends saw us approaching them via AIS and then called us on the VHF radio to tell us the found a good anchorageMorro JableSailing to Grand Canaria
Our original plan was to find a cheap marina on Tenerife island to do some work on the boat, hike and climb on the island, and meet a friend of Paul's stepmom. Then we discovered how cheap it was to stay in the government owned marina at Las Palmas, Gran Canaria. For our boat just 202 euros for one month, water, electricity, and wifi included!!! So we stayed for one month and the time flew by.
We spent almost every night with Babeth and Eric. We met the perfect family, The Haze family from Quebec with their two young daughters Rebecca and Demi. Angie was also in heaven because all of the clothing stores had their annual sales. It was like boxing day prices in Canada for two months in the Canary islands.
Las PalmasThe Christopher Columbus HouseVegueta district...the nicest area of Las PalmasVisiting the sand dunes of MaspalomasMaspalomas sand dunesAngie replacing the previously tattered Canadain flagDice game with the FrenchRoque Nublo
From Las Palmas Angie took a flight back to Cassablanca then onward to Canada :( I hope she will visit us again.
Paul wrote about these same days, in French, from his side of the boat. Read his account →
I actually had a great time other than not feeling great. I would recommend it to anyone who has the time to go for a visit. It is an adventure for sure. Just get used to not showering, doing laundry by hand, big waves, interesting people and sites. FYI the dinghy looked wimpy and I didn't know if it would hold us all lol.
Clément Arnaud2014-10-21
Salut les nazes!!!
Les photos sont magnifiques, vos aventures sont bien écrites, ça donne envie de partir.
Je pars grimper en décembre à Ko Phi Phi en Thaïland pour tester le Deep Water Soloing, si jamais vous êtes dans les parages faites moi signe.
Bisous à tous les deux et à très bientôt!!
torruella jean claude2014-11-08
super le voyage!! et les photos !!pensons souvent à vous et vous suivons.plein de bises a vous deux et bonne route!!!! Nicole et Jean Claude
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