French Polynesia (11 May 2015 – 29 August 2015)

French Polynesia

I remember speaking to Thierry and Margaux on sv Skimmer in Cape Verde about our favourite places we’ve visited so far. We had just left the Canary islands and we had some great sailing, hiking, foodie, and personal memories. So we answered the Canary islands. Margaux scoffed, “That was nothing. Just wait until you reach the Pacific islands and French Polynesia”.

Wow was she ever right. Life moves at a slower pace in the islands...a pace where you have time to appreciate where you are.

Fatu Hiva

After 32 consecutive days at sea my reward outweighed the hardships. I think Paul could have happily continued for another 32 more days. Our original plan was to landfall in Atuona, Nuku Hiva (an official port of entry) but we quickly changed our minds when we heard on the net that other cruisers would landfall in Fatu Hiva. Wow wow wow. I’m so grateful that we made this decision because the anchorage at The Bay of Virgins can render one speechless. I compare it to a strenuous multi day hike to reach the summit of a mountain.

As we approached the anchorage we saw a familiar boat sv Embelli. We met Jean-Charles and Marie for the first time in Portobelo, Panama and had dinner with them just before they set off on their Pacific passage. We drove up close to them and Jean-Charles shouted, “Hello, where did you arrive from?” Paul smirked and shouted, “from Panama!!” Embelli had just come from Nuku Hiva where they checked into the country.

We congratulated ourselves and thanked Arbutus for another successful ocean crossing. Celebratory wine and snacks were had and I think Paul checked into the cruisers net to report that we were safely anchored in Fatu Hiva. I don’t even think we went on land that day because we were too exhausted so the next day we finally put our two feet on land. Such a good feeling to walk and RUN!!!

 We were anxious to put faces to the voices of cruisers we heard over the net. One in particular we were anxious to meet was sv Ednbal. Rodger’s energetic and cheerful voice over the radio waves always put us in a good mood. I think they arrived a day or two before us and we finally met Rodger and Sasha in front of the tiny food stall in the pocket sized town of Hanavave. I think Sasha asked me where I got the cooked bananas a local had given us. We introduced ourselves and a new friendship was born.

We also met YOUNG cruisers. Younger than us! Not retired! Rodger and Sasha introduced us to a Canadian couple Greg and Kaycee on sv Oceanna. I’m pretty sure I saw their catamaran in Panama city because I remember being so excited to see the Canadian flag :).

 Our second day on land we decided to join Embelli on an epic hike from the main town of Omoa to Hanavave where we were anchored. Holy mother of...it was steep. From town we unknowingly went down the wrong road which took us on a beautiful hike where we collected papaya. We realized we were on the wrong track when we came to a dead end...so we begrudgingly retraced our steps back to town. Paul, Marie, and I continued on the right path and Jean-Charles decided to take a boat back to the anchorage. I was out of shape after our crossing and my feet were aching on the steep downward slopes back to Hanavave. My toes would jam into the front of my shoe and because of this repetitive nature it killed one of my big toe nails. Back on the boat I could see half of it was falling off... It was worth it for the fantastic view of the anchorage. When we were walking back to the anchorage through the small town we found a stalk of bananas. There weren’t any homes near by so we decided chop it down...probably not the wisest thing to do. White man arrives by boat, marches on land, and takes what he wants (and leaves disease and famine in his path). We talked to a local asking if it was alright that we took the bananas...he didn’t look happy. He said normally you ask before you take, but said it was fine. We felt really embarrassed. He also told us even though the banana tree wasn’t on private property that someone did own them. We learned our lesson. Short hike to the falls with cruisers. Repairing the main after our Pacific crossing.

Temo and Karin

My French is decent after living in France for two years so I was ecstatic when I was able to communicate with the locals. Our first day on land we met a lovely family. Temo, Karin, their son, and Karin’s mother. Temo is a wood carver and we were anxious to trade with him. We ended up trading some old rope and some of the small items we bought in Panama for a bowl carving. Both sides were happy. Each time we went on land we went to their house to say hello and chat. Karen said their son is normally timid with strangers...but not with me. Probably because our level of French was the same. Hahaha. He was proud to show me his room and toys.

I can’t remember how long we stayed in Hanavave. I regret now not keeping a more up to date journal. Anyways, at the end of our stay there were quite a few boats anchored and the cruisers wanted to organize a dinner. Somehow Rodger coerced Paul into organizing it. Haha good one Rodger. So Paul asked Temo and he was like “We can do it”...and we were like Where? And he was like “Here” Here? There were 25 cruisers maybe more and I couldn’t see everyone fitting on their tiny verandah. “It will be fine”, Temo reassured us.

The dinner was planned for the next day so I asked if I could help with the prep work. I went to Karin’s in the morning and everyone was busy preparing for the meal. So many dishes were planned. Temo was removing plantains from the stalk, his friend was preparing a chicken dish, Karen was cleaning the octopus Temo caught that morning, and grandma was preparing the dessert. Temo and his friend were also setting up the underground oven to cook the wild pig.

 I don’t know how much help I was because grandma took me for a walk to find tuna from one of the neighbours. They wanted to prepare poisson cru...my favourite dish of raw tuna and coconut milk. The feast was amazing and everyone was in high spirits. Karen and her friend even treated us to a traditional dance. There were many cruising families at the dinner. One in particular who stood out was Sept a Vire, a Belgium family with mom, dad, and FIVE kids on their catamaran. Such a nice family!

We also met Olivier and Vivien on sv Marry Ann. Olivier is French and Vivien Malaysian...they do exist. Vivien is the first Asian cruiser we’ve met since we left France. I felt a little less special...Also back in Panama city there was talk about a male Korean sailor which was even more impressive as a captain.

Atuona, Hiva Oa All good things come to an end and we sadly had to leave The Bay of Virgins. Our next stop...Atuona, Hiva Oa to check in. Oceanna picked up anchor an hour or so before us so we could see them in the horizon. Paul thought we could catch up to them...I told him there was no way. They have a catamaran, they are younger, and better looking than us. While Paul was still talking about catching up to them another sailboat overtook us on our starboard side...Hahaha. A beautiful 15 -16 metre Amel (French). We heard over the VHF that a supply ship would arrive in two days so we wanted to anchor away from the ships maneuvering path (so we wouldn’t have to move Arbutus when the ship came). Wow the anchorage was pretty crowded when we arrived so we decided to drop anchor away from the other boats and would re-anchor when before the supply ship arrived...annoying.

Baguettes and Bok Choy?

Atuona had a few small to medium size food stores that sold gigantic baguettes for $0.50 each!! Not the same delicious artisan quality as one can find at a boulangerie in France but we weren’t complaining. Locals also grew Chinese Bok Choy!! The shops carried basic foods and supplies. There wasn’t a lot of selection and variety but they had everything we needed...except for cheap French wine.

The obligatory tourist stop was Belgium singer Jacque Brel and French artist Paul Gauguin's graves.

We formed a bike gang with Rodger and Sasha and explored the island for the afternoon. Sometimes I wonder if it's worth it to have foldable bikes on board because they take up so much valuable space and for us they are so annoying to remove and and put back BUT after travelling through the Pacific island I think they are invaluable. Tahuata

• Anchored near Hana Moe Noa
• Sting ray central!!!
• Beautiful stone Catholic church in the small town of Vitahu
• Octopus
• Coconut lamp
• Outboard engine decided to take a swim

We had enough of the big city life and another idyllic anchorage awaited at Tahuata island. I don't know if we were feeling anti-social or just needed breathing room from our previous cramped quarters in Hiva Oh, so we decided to park in the bay next to Hana Moe Noa bay in front of our own private beach. One sting ray, two sting rays, three sting rays...TEN...maybe not that many but it felt like that because of their massive size. I'm not a water person..What?!?! but you live on a boat?!?! Your home is floating on water!! Whatevz...and I'm not the strongest swimmer so I stayed in the dinghy while Paul swam with the sting ray. Hopefully there will be other opportunities and I won't be such a scaredy cat. Our private beach. Secluded anchorage next to Hana Moe Noa This is how white man splits a coconut....I wonder why he didn't use the chainsaw. Octopussy (our French friend Sid calls them in English) We anchored in Vitahu Bay and attended the Sunday morning church service with David and Cindy on Full Circle. The stone church was stunning, set apart from the other buildings, and set amongst a lush green backdrop, sitting in a lush green valley. The service was in Marquesan so we didn't understand a single word, but the church members sang some beautiful songs. After the service we were invited to have lunch. So nice! We also organized another lunch at one of the local’s homes the next afternoon. It seems really easy to make friends on Tahuata! We brought some wine the lunch and Cindy and David brought some baseball hats to give out. After lunch we went to see jewellery made by one of the women who we met a church. Cindy and I bought and traded for some and I found some earrings for Paul’s mom who would be joining us soon. While we were looking at the jewelry a guy in a truck pulled up in front of the house and told us our outboard engine was in the water!! Shit. The guy gave Paul and David a ride back to the anchorage and they saw the massive swell entering the bay.

We left our dingy with an anchor in the front and attached the back to a mooring buoy for one of the small boats. Because of the rise and fall of the massive swell our outboard got caught in our line or another line...we’re not too sure...and we think the swell caused the line to go slack then tight, then slack, then tight….etc. There was so much force when the line went tight that it forced the engine off it’s support! Exciting stuff….wait not exciting…now we don’t have an outboard…

Paul was able to dive and tie a rope around the engine and hoist it back onto the dinghy. The local who alerted us of our overboard outboard (haha overboard outboard) was nice enough to give Paul and the outboard a lift to his friends house. The house was literally the first one as you were leaving the dock. Paul brought the engine back from the dead by flushing it out with fresh water and Macgyvered it back on to it’s support.

Everytime we went on land we never left empty handed...The locals were so nice and gave us heaps of fresh fruit. Arbutus anchored in Vitahu Bay Leaving Vitahu Bay with a beauty of a rainbow sending us off This time we socialized and anchored in Hana Moe Noa bay where Kaycee and Greg organized a bocce tournament. The bocce balls were made out of coconut shells!! Brilliant. Here we met Kiwi/American young couple Andy and Megan on sv Wairua...another new friendship in bloom.

Nuku Hiva

We had an appointment to pick up Cendrine, Paul’s mom at Nuku Hiva so we picked up anchor and sailed overnight to Haahopu Bay, in the north western side of the island. It was the closest anchorage to the airport on Nuku Hiva. I stayed onboard that morning and prepared the solar shower for Cendrine while Paul went to meet his mom at the airport. I can’t imagine how exhausted she felt after flying for over 24 hours, including two layovers...And then instead of arriving to a hotel and hot shower via a comfortable air conditioned taxi, Cendrine arrived via dirt road to a deserted anchorage, had to jump into the dinghy with all her luggage, had a quick swim, then the captain announced that we were lifting anchor to sail to a more protected anchorage for the evening. Haha Welcome aboard Arbutus Cendrine!

We sailed to Daniel’s Bay (Hakatea Bay) and were happy to see Full Circle already anchored there. The next day the five of us hiked to Vaipo Waterfall and it was quite the adventure. Multiple streams to cross where the water came up to our arse. We were rewarded for our effort when we arrived at the lush gorge surrounded by high walls where Paul and David took a dip in the frigid water and swam underneath the falls. The ladies were wise enough to remain fully clothed and warm.

The shallowest stream we had to cross to get to the handful of homes at Daniel's Bay. Vaipo waterfall Vaipo waterfall with Cendrine, Cindy, and David

Before leaving on our hike one of the locals asked if we wanted them to prepare dinner for us for after the hike. They didn’t need to twist our arms and our tummies were grumbling after our hike. The meal was delicious!!

We spent some time in Taioha the main town of Nuku Hiva where we had internet!!! Wow such a luxury. The supermarkets were larger so we stocked up on supplies before sailing to Ua Pou. Even though the three of us wanted to explore the north of Nuku Hiva time didn’t permit us. We only a limited time with Cendrine before she flew out of Papeete so off to Ua Pou we went!!

We also met Rodger and Sasha and Rodger asked Paul if he wanted to be one of the net controllers for the cruisers net. Paul was stoked! Sometimes I think Paul feels the need to control everything...and now he was going to be a Net CONTROLLER!!! I hoped it wouldn't go to his head.

Also every morning Paul would download the weather forecast via our SSB. The text was written in French so he translated it and would report the weather every morning on the cruisers net. In the beginning Paul was the weather man every morning then others volunteered to take a one day a week.

Ua Pou

Another day another Marquesan island. We anchored at Hakahetau in the northwest of the island. We spent a few days on Ua Pou hiking and getting to know the locals. We met a stone carver who made us some beautiful necklaces from the indigenous stone.

En route to the Tuamotus

• 5 day sail from Ua Pou to Tahanea
• Atolls!!! (ring shaped coral reefs)
• Coral heads!! watch out!
• snorkeling galore

Light winds forced us to use the engine more than we wanted to. I think this passage was uneventful...because I don't remember a thing except that Cendrine was a star and we all had headaches because of the noise of the engine. Our original plan was to landfall (or atoll fall) at Makemo but our timing wasn't right and passed by Makemo during the night. For our first pass we obviously wanted it to be daylight so you know, then we would be able to see the coral heads and make sure visually that all thumbs were up when  going through the pass and into the lagoon. At sunrise we had a visual of Tahanea!! Our first atoll didn't disappoint. Can you imagine a thin-ish ring shaped coral reef with a line of palm trees of varying height growing on the ring, and behind the palm trees sky! Trippy. Now imagine you're in the middle of the Pacific ocean...you have to zoom in a lot if you're trying to find Tahanea on google maps. Ohhhh the heavenly sunsets...it's like nothing I've ever seen before. How lucky am I to see and feel and breath and BE in such diverse environments...I felt like I wasn't on earth anymore but on a foreign planet Trying to sail on the dinghy using a tarp, rope, and one of the paddles. We faired pretty well. Fakarava South Fakarava  - We made it through the pass just before the sun set. It was a little hectic as we approached because we were hit by a brief squall which brought some rain and wind. We would have liked to have more light as we were going through the pass and approach to the anchorage to see the coral heads below but managed just fine. Trying to avoid the coral heads on our ride onto land with Walter and Meryl. Our original plan was to sail to Tahiti with Cendrine where she would catch her flight home to France but as expected the weather decides everything and we didn't have enough wind and time to sail to Tahiti. So Cendrine had to book a flight from North Fakarava to Tahiti. We had to engine our way from south to north Fakarava and we almost lost our lunch during the passage...like blew chunks because we were so sick of what could have happened. On our CM93 charts the passage was clear, no dangers to avoid...but as we were having lunch in the cockpit Cendrine remarks " oh la la that coral is mighty close." Paul and I turn around and our mouths drop...There was a huge coral head emerging above the water surface maybe 40 metres from us. We were going at 5 knots and a collision with a coral head that size probably would have paralyzed Arbutus . All the "what if" questions were posed. I think this is why we have full cover insurance...for the what ifs...Were we lucky or was someone watching out for us? Tahiti 3 day passage from Fakarava to Tahiti. We anchored in Tautira on the the smaller, southeastern part of Tahiti, Tahiti Iti. The town was small with a few food shops and one gas station. Locals were very friendly and gave us mangos :) Papeete We didn't feel the need to go into the Marina de Papeete in downtown Papeete so we anchored for free off of Marina Taina on the West coast. This anchorage was great for provisioning as there is a huge Carrefour supermarket within walking distance. We easily took the bus and hitch hiked into the downtown. We caught up with friends, dinned at restaurants, visited the impressive market, and went to the ship handler and hardware store every other day...or was it everyday... Our friendly neighbours, a father and son, on their aluminium boat...obviously French...helped us out tremendously when we wanted to leave Tahiti for Moorea. After a week or two and with the changes in wind direction our anchor chain decided to get friendly with the neighbourhood coral head and wrapped itself around it's rough exterior. Paul wasn't able to release the chain by free diving as it was too deep so our neighbour took out his diving gear and unwrapped our chain for us. So nice!!! Polynesian games in Tahiti!! Moorea Just a short sail from Tahiti and big city life of Papeete is the island of Moorea. We anchored in dramatic  Cook's Bay...almost as good as Bay of Virgins in Fatu Hiva. We pulled out our bikes one day and circumnavigated the island. I was a hot sweaty mess at the end and had a sore ass for days afterward. Raiatea and Tahaa Long exposure of Fa'aroa Bay, Raiatea Visited a vanilla bean farm on Tahaa Bora Bora

• Tourist destination
• Anchored in front of the luxurious over water bungalows. Haha
• Biked around the whole island
• Swam in the crystal clear waters
• Good provisioning at supermarkets
• Checked out of the country

Maupiti Wow wow woah! No expectations for Maupiti and she knocked our socks off. Word of advise if you're headed to Maupiti from Bora Bora: save some of your French Pacific Francs to spend on their beautiful produce!!! We ate the most delicious tiny aubergines. We met a French couple who are living permanently on Maupiti and they were nice enough to invite us to their beautiful home for lunch. They even asked us to deliver some bread to their friend on Maupihaa. Mount Teurafaatiu, perhaps one of the most breathtaking views I've ever seen. We had a view of the pass we entered, the coral reef, and the dramatic range of blues. We were rocking and rolling when we left Maupiti. We left with the outgoing current BUT there was a point when the current met the incoming swell creating huge, erratic, peaky mountain like waves. It was like we were on an amusement park ride. I was thoroughly amused and held onto my seat. I think Arbutus had fun too. Maupihaa There was a bad patch of weather coming through so we hunkered down at Maupihaa. I think it rained for 2 days straight and we stayed on the boat for the most of the time. I had cabin fever one day and had to go out and swim in the rain. The rain stopped and we had friends in the anchorage. Andy and Megan on Wairua, Josh and his crew on Kuhala, and Matt and Kate on Tamata...and the boys knew how to spear fish and free dive down 30+ metres down! So we had a steady supply of fresh fish thanks to them. There were two or three families living on the atoll and we befriended them immediately. We shared two dinners with them and the other cruisers in the anchorage. One day we asked if we could help them with their copra (dried white meat of the coconut where oil is extracted) collecting and they were happy to oblige. Every few months? a ship would come and collect the copra. Using the special curved metal coconut meat extractor. I couldn't master the technique...and was very slow. Cleaning of the coconut meat Eventually the coconut meat is spread out on a flat surface under the sun to dry....for whatever reason I don't have a picture of this...