LAND!! Our first look at Galéria, Corsica.Calvi harbour where it was impossible to sleep at night because of the noisy restaurants/barsCalvi, Corsica
September 8th was an exciting day because we welcomed our new crew member. We met Paul's mom Cendrine at the train station in Calvi, Corsica and took her straight to Arbutus in the harbour. Instead of paying 40 euros for another night stay we sailed just two nautical miles to Revellata and dropped the anchor. The anchor didn't move for the next four nights. 40 knots of southerly winds with 50 knot gusts kept us from sailing any further south. So we had to keep ourselves occupied.
We spent one day walking on the trails to the Revellata lighthouse, another day we walked back to visit the city of Calvi, and we spent one day working on the boat. Cendrine hand stitched protective covers for two of the winches, I punched eyelets into panels of red fabric which will be attached to the life lines around the boat for protection and privacy, and Paul successfully rewired the automatic pilot. Before there was a thick black wire running from the cockpit to the interior creating an annoying tripping hazard. Now the wire is hidden in the compass column.
Cendrine and ArbutusLighthouse of La RevellataCendrine waiting to put her second loaf of bread in the oven.Punching too many holes and adding too many eyelets...Lighthouse of La RevellataArbutus anchored in the Gulf of Revellata, Calvi, Corsica.
The wind let up enough for us to leave our familiar anchorage, but the sail South was less than desirable. It was crap, slow and tiring. Paul was probably the most exhausted because he had to go on deck and change the sails three times...it could have only been two changes had he listened to my advice. Because of the choppy seas Cendrine got sea sick for the first time in her life. She has previous sailing experience in the South of France and the Caribbean and was surprised when she got so sick. I felt so bad for her because I know all too well how she felt. When we reached our intended anchorage just South of Galéria we were met by a large-ish swell. Hoping for a comfortable night we turned around and chose to anchor at Galéria, close to the entrance of the small harbour. There was a small swell and the boat was rocking but we still had a good nights sleep.
Corsica, FranceCorsica, France
We continued our way south towards Bonifacio and were treated to two beautiful sunsets at our anchorage at Cacalu and Cala di Furnellu. Our neighbours at the Cala di Furnellu anchorage were Canadian...well Québécois...close enough.
Our anchorage at Cala di Furnellu, CorsicaPaul getting some sewing tips to repair the main sail at Cala di Furnellu, Corsica
Our mission the next morning was to sail to Bonifacio to seek shelter from another strong wind (force 6) forecast. We had yet another adventure getting to Bonifacio. We got soaked. Really really soaked. I foolishly only put on my jacket and when the rain dumped on us it looked like I just went for a swim. Cendrine didn't want to take a bath so she wisely stayed inside. After the rain clouds passed we approached the magnificent entrance to Bonifacio.
Ominous clouds await our crew...Sailing towards Bonifacio, CorsicaWet cam...dark rain clouds were following us to BonifacioLes Québécois beat us to Bonifacio through strong winds and rough seas.Bonifacio, Corsica, FranceThe approach to the harbour at Bonifacio, Corsica, France
Thanks to the strong winds we were stuck once again. We spent three nights in the harbour at Bonifacio but we weren't complaining because it's a breathtaking city by the sea. We had a great time sight seeing, we made friends with the Québécois, and took a day trip to another city on the East coast of the island. At the end of our three nights Cendrine had to take the ferry from Bonifacio to Sardinia because her flight left from Sardinia. We just didn't make it in time due to weather. I was really upset saying goodbye to Cendrine. She was the perfect crew member...not a burden but an asset. Also my French improved over those ten days because of her.
Bonifacio, Corsica, FranceCendrine at Bonifacio, Corsica, FranceI think this is called a lenticular cloud or saucer cloud or pretty sweet looking cloud.Bonifacio, Corsica, FranceApparently crew members with a different nationality than the boat can hoist their national flag on the starboard side!Sardinia
Sardinia was paradise, absolute paradise. The favorable winds and waves sling shot us across the Straight of Bonifacio. I think we hit an all time high of 9 knots when riding a big wave. Arbutus surfed across the straight. I remember screaming in excitement when I saw the huge waves approaching us from behind. Paul thought I was screaming in fear...but it was definitely excitement...
HUGE waves (for us) in the Strait of Bonifacio
The organic wave like rock formations looked like sculptures at our second anchorage in Cala Coticcio was heaven. We thought about Paul's mom and wished she was with us to share this utopia and to swim in the warm water !!!
A new bread of fish...or Paul diving at Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.Arbutus likes her new home at Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.An odd looking fish at Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.Arbutus anchored at Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.Paradise at Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.Making sure the anchor is holding at Cala Coticcio, Sardinia, Italy.Paradisiacal perfection at Cala Coticcio, SardiniaWind, water, and sand meet rock to sculpt this at Cala Coticcio, SardiniaSardiniaWe almost lost a paddle or/and the wooden plank seat.I wonder if they will give me a lift with their helicopter?
We continued on our way to Cala Gonone where we spent two nights. We were hoping to anchor close to the harbour but there was too much rock down below. So we went into the harbour. Paul ate his first authentic Italian pizza!! Can you imagine this French kid has never visited Italy before. Crazy cakes.
We wanted to find some more detailed nautical maps of Italy but instead chose to buy the navionics app. We had no idea this app existed until our French neighbour at Cala Gonone told us about it. We are delighted with it.
Yah Climbing!! Yah Germans!! Yah climbing in the shade!! It was too bloody hot to rock climb during the hot afternoon but we were able to find a crag where it was in the shade for most of the day and it was filled with friendly Germans. The best part was the approach was just 20 mins away by foot from the harbour and the entire way we walked next to the sea. Win, win, win, and won! It was a great day even though some of the routes were super polished.
Hiding from the harsh afternoon sun and climbing in the shade at Cala Gonone, SardiniaThe approach to the crag at Cala Gonone, SardiniaSunset after a day of climbing. Cala Gonone, SardiniaClimbing in the shade at Cala Gonone, Sardinia
After stocking up on fresh pesto, mozza, and tomatoes we sailed to Cala Fuli where we climbed some more :) The next day more of the same. A short sail to Cala Luna for a multi-pitch climb where at the top we had a great view of Arbutus in the bay. Happiness can be just a short sail away.
Paul dropping anchor at Cala Luna, SardiniaCala Sisine, SardiniaArbutus is anchored just behind the rock. Cala Sisine, SardiniaArbutus anchored in the bay at Cala Luna, SardiniaThe view from the top of our climb at Cala Luna, SardiniaSunset at Cala Luna, Sardinia
On September 29th...or 30th we attempted to sail to Sicily! Attempted is the key word because we made a U-turn with our tails between our legs because as we sailed further out to sea the conditions were not as we expected. 15 knots of wind soon turned into 30 knots and I saw white caps on the horizon and I cursed. We didn't want an uncomfortable ride for the next three days so we turned around.
We left the following morning with better conditions. Here we come Sicily !
Paul wrote about these same days, in French, from his side of the boat. Read his account →
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