New Zealand - Part 2 (Nov 2015 – May 2018)
Captain Paul had been entertaining the idea of sailing to the South of the South island...like Fiordland south. I was totally and completely opposed to this frigid idea and so we compromised by agreeing to sail to Nelson on the northern tip of the south island, and maybe possibly sailing as far as Christchurch.
From Whangarei we worked our way down the east cost and stopped to visit Leigh, Kawau island, and Waiheke island. We had a rendezvous with our friend from Paris who was in Auckland for business, so we took a berth at Westhaven Marina (possibly our future home for the next year or two?!?).
Francis is an old work colleague of Paul’s and our rock climbing partner :) We invited him and his colleague on the boat for dinner and took them out for a sail the next day. It was sooo good to catch up with Francis half way around the world.
We only stayed in Auckland for four nights then continued south towards Gisborne and Napier. Our plan was to stop and visit these cities before heading to Wellington but the wind was in our favour to take us directly to Wellington. So we road the wind down to Wellington and planned to stop in Gisborne and Napier on our return trip to Auckland. It was a four day sail from Auckland to Wellington. Wellington’s nickname is Windy Welly however, when we were anchored in Evan’s bay we only had 10 knots of wind with calm seas. Outside the anchorage just 15 knots...
We arrived just before sunset so we stayed onboard for the night. The next day we explored the cool as city. It has a lot more character than Auckland with more interesting architecture and creative vibe. We wanted to stay longer but again the weather was favourable to cross Cook Strait over to the South Island.
Paul had kept his eye on the weather around Cook Strait since we left Auckland because this strait is known to be a challenging crossing, especially for small boats. It's "formidable piece of water with changeable weather and a number of natural hazards". The wind funnels through the strait and currents can reach up to 7 knots. So it was crucial that we chose the right time to depart Wellington. Thankfully we didn't meet any strong funnelling winds in the strait and we road the tidal stream towards the south island. At times we saw 10 knots of boat speed!!! So we sling shot across the strait and the ride was only slightly rolly. Perhaps we had perfect conditions for this crossing...
Marlbourgh Sounds was marlbellous...haha see what I did there? We caught a huge tuna on the way down from Auckland and we were looking for other boats to share it with, but they were hard to come by. It’s like we had the place all to ourselves. It was quite spectacular to be in the sounds and have high hills on either side of you and sometimes in front and behind.
We inadvertently caught a shark while trawling!! So sorry little guy!!! When he or she tired out we were able to unhook her and she swam drunkingly away. So so sorry if you were injured because of us. After anchoring around in the sounds for 4 nights we headed to Nelson and stayed at the marina for 3 nights. We had company in the marina, a French boat s/v Arpatas who we met in the Kerikeri river. We unloaded our foldable bikes and were able to explore the area.
From there we only spent another week in the sounds. We had to get back up to Auckland to meet my parents who were flying in from Canada.
Our first crossing of Cook Strait was sunshine and unicorn rainbows and the second time crossing back over to North island was dark, black, caustic DEATH.
The crossing of the strait was adventurous but everything was under control. It was only after the crossing, when we tacked towards Wellington harbour, that shit hit the wall. There was 35 knots in our back coming slightly from port side and a strong current against us. 35 knots of wind vs. 5 or 6 knots of counter current. The conditions were horrible. The conditions changed so dramatically with a just a change in course. We were inching our way towards Wellington harbour so we started the engine for some help. It helped a bit. The conditions were the worst we have ever sailed in (maybe second to that time in Greece...45 knots...). There was so much water washing up on deck at one point it felt like someone was dumping huge buckets of water on the boat, hitting the dodger with so much force. It felt like Arbutus was nose diving into the 3 metre waves. Because of the conditions the visibility was shit so we were relying heavily on our instruments.
Since we left France in June 2013, I have never been scared while sailing Arbutus. Today was the first time I was scared. Paul was in the cockpit, wearing his foul weather gear and harness and I was inside sitting at the bottom of the companionway on the floor with my head on my knees, looking from time to time at the nautical charts on the computer and our boat speed. At one point when I looked at our speed we were going at 1 knot (1.8 km/h) and Paul was pushing the engine to it's max power. Which was also a first for us. With the VHF radio we called into Wellington Harbour Radio just as a precaution as we were entering the channel because visibility was so bad. For some reason I was expecting them to be surprised and even worried that an 11 meter pleasure craft was entering the harbour in these conditions. I was expecting them to ask if we needed any assistance... We have AIS and were emitting our position and speed...but I was surprised to hear a normal calm voice answering my call. He asked the normal questions of "number of persons on board, what are your intentions". Maybe it was a regular day in Windy Welly. We eventually made it into Evan's Bay and dropped anchor and the sun was shining...I guess it was shining the whole time we were in hell just couldn't see it through the massive sea state. We were a bit shaken up but safe and sound with no damage and slept like babies that night. Ok now I understand the nickname "Windy Welly".
Are you kidding me!! There was a nice southerly wind that could take us up to Tauranga if we left Wellington the next afternoon. So again, because of the weather we only stayed in Wellington for one day.
When we lifted anchor in the afternoon I was surprised to see so many boats on the water with their sails reefed and heeling like crazy. Some people sail for sport? What a concept...
Because we were on a schedule and had to meet my parents in Auckland we had to skip Gisborne and Napier again...We spent 3 nights on the water sailing north and wanted to see White Island just off of Tauranga. White island is New Zealand's most active volcano. and we could smell the sulphur as we approached. Super dramatic. I was hesitant to anchor overnight in the Lord of the Rings like ominous setting.
The next day we anchored at Moiti island and then hopped over to Tauranga Bridge Marina for 11 days. 11 days you ask? Why so long? Paul's favourite pass time is to ponder, "what else can I add to my toy (our home) to make it cooler". Staying warm is pretty cool. OKAYs, let me install an Eberspacher Air Heater and air ducts to disperse the hot air for the mild Auckland winter and our possible future passage to Alaska and Canada. OKAY good idea...how much is that going to cost?
Our noisy neighbours in Tauranga.
Climbing at Mount Maunganui.
While Paul was installing the heater I checked out the farmers markets and thrift stores. Op shops in Kiwi. We were so glad to have our foldable bikes with us in Tauranga as the distances were a bit long for us to walk, not to mention we had our bike bags to do our big grocery shops.
MOM AND DAD ARRIVE!!
Time to get moving back up to Auckland to meet my folks :) Momma and papa bear flew in from Canada and stayed for 3 weeks. It was their first time ever seeing Arbutus and experiencing our lifestyle. I booked them an AirBnb in Ponsonby for their first two nights knowing they would be seriously tired from the long flight. The next two nights they were prisoners in our V-Berth. Muwahahaha.
We were hesitant going out that day as there was 25 knots of wind in the forecast and for my parents this would be their first time sailing. I knew my dad would be fine as he is used to being on the water in his small fishing boat. But my mom...oh my oh my. She gets motion sickness worse than me. We decided to sail and mom and pops heaved themselves aboard and we were off to the races.
The wind was not too strong as we left the marina but, as we got out of sheltered Waitemata Harbour, more commonly known as Auckland Harbour, the winds picked up. To insure a comfortable sail with no casualties of seasickness we only sailed with the mainsail and engine which kept the boat steady. Much to my amazement mom didn't feel sick in the slightest.
The real fun began on the dinghy ride to land. Maybe it was the noisy outboard engine or the size of our small dinghy accommodating four adults that transformed them into little kids. Grinning and laughing and saying they felt like they were on the TV show Survivor?!?! Hahaha.
We just spent one night anchored at Waiheke island and the next afternoon we went back to Westhaven Marina because we had a flight to Christchurch the following day. Christchurch is the home to our dearest Canadian family friends. Our families were only two houses apart in Nanaimo, BC and I am only eight days younger than twins Leanne and Nicole. I think we met when we were six months old?!?!
After we landed we picked up the rental car, checked into our AirBnb, and bought some drinks for a BBQ dinner at Leanne's. Ahhhh what a reunion :) Was so good to catch up with everyone and meet Leanne's husband and two daughters. I wish my sister and brother were with us for this reunion.
Our Canadian family were so kind and took us on a tour of Christchurch and Lyttelton. We even had dinner at Brandon's home with his family. Brandon is Leanne and Nicole's older brother.
After spending 4 nights in Christchurch we dropped Paul at the airport as he was keen to start his job hunt. The Nagai's on the other hand were ready for their road trip from Christchurch to Auckland. Wahoo!!! A little less than two weeks with my parents in close quarters!!! Thank god for my dad and his relaxed and calming personality.
We visited Amberley, Kaikoura, Picton, Wellington, Taupo, and Rotorua. We stayed in cheap - moderately priced motels/hotels.
Most of the time the three of us slept in the same room and astonishingly I found out that now my mother snores!!! Her slightly annoying rythmic snoring coupled with my dad's chainsaw like thunderous snore, I had some sleepless nights getting out of bed EVERY FIVE mins to shove my dad. God I hope Paul doesn't start snoring when he gets older.
We had one last night in Auckland to celebrate my mom and dad's 35th wedding anniversary and enjoyed a delicious Japanese meal in Parnell. My parents flew out the next afternoon :(. As I get older the more I realize how important family is and I'm so grateful that I got to spend three weeks with my parents making sweet sweet memories.
LOOKING FOR A JOB?!?! WORKING AGAIN?!?!
Meanwhile on Arbutus, while the Nagai's were frolicking around New Zealand, responsible Paul was deep in his job hunt and already had some interviews. Within a few weeks he was hired by Derceto as a software engineer and acquired a 3 year work visa. This would be his first experience working in an English speaking environment. So proud of you Paul! I on the other hand had trouble passing my medical exam to acquire my easily attainable 23 month Working Holiday Visa. Long story short, don't give a urine sample near the beginning or end of your menstrual cycle and/or don't smoke dope, and drink plenty of fluids. After my fourth visit and third negative urine sample they sent my pee to a special lab to be tested...
Eight weeks later my visa was approved on May 31st!!! I didn't waste my time waiting for my visa and set up my profile on Upwork and got a few freelance graphic design jobs. I sent out my CV and was hoping for a positive response for a food photography position but it wasn't in the cards. I accepted a position as front desk agent for Waldorf Tetra Apartment Hotels and worked there for 4 months before transferring to the Reservations team for all six Waldorf properties in Auckland.
For the most part my work experience was positive and I will never forget the amazing, diverse, loyal, funny as hell team that I got to work with. I smiled, laughed, and joked around with my co-workers heaps. Sometimes it felt like I was back in high school.
We lived in Auckland from the beginning of April 2016 to the end of April 2018 and the time flew by. I think we were both happy to be settled in one place for an extended amount of time. We made friends, worked full time jobs, fell into routine, and explored this beautiful country. We felt useful, productive, and content.
During that time I had visits from my cousin Yukari and my sister :)
We were lucky to get a long term berth at Westhaven Marina and live on board Arbutus during our two years in Auckland. I thought we would rent an apartment but Arbutus is our home and with a new shower, hot water, heater, and shore power for my induction cooktop we had everything we needed on board.
In September we flew to Canada to see my little brother get married to his long time girlfriend Megan!
We only stayed in Auckland for four nights then continued south towards Gisborne and Napier. Our plan was to stop and visit these cities before heading to Wellington but the wind was in our favour to take us directly to Wellington. So we road the wind down to Wellington and planned to stop in Gisborne and Napier on our return trip to Auckland. It was a four day sail from Auckland to Wellington. Wellington’s nickname is Windy Welly however, when we were anchored in Evan’s bay we only had 10 knots of wind with calm seas. Outside the anchorage just 15 knots...
We arrived just before sunset so we stayed onboard for the night. The next day we explored the cool as city. It has a lot more character than Auckland with more interesting architecture and creative vibe. We wanted to stay longer but again the weather was favourable to cross Cook Strait over to the South Island.
Paul had kept his eye on the weather around Cook Strait since we left Auckland because this strait is known to be a challenging crossing, especially for small boats. It's "formidable piece of water with changeable weather and a number of natural hazards". The wind funnels through the strait and currents can reach up to 7 knots. So it was crucial that we chose the right time to depart Wellington. Thankfully we didn't meet any strong funnelling winds in the strait and we road the tidal stream towards the south island. At times we saw 10 knots of boat speed!!! So we sling shot across the strait and the ride was only slightly rolly. Perhaps we had perfect conditions for this crossing...
Marlbourgh Sounds was marlbellous...haha see what I did there? We caught a huge tuna on the way down from Auckland and we were looking for other boats to share it with, but they were hard to come by. It’s like we had the place all to ourselves. It was quite spectacular to be in the sounds and have high hills on either side of you and sometimes in front and behind.
We inadvertently caught a shark while trawling!! So sorry little guy!!! When he or she tired out we were able to unhook her and she swam drunkingly away. So so sorry if you were injured because of us. After anchoring around in the sounds for 4 nights we headed to Nelson and stayed at the marina for 3 nights. We had company in the marina, a French boat s/v Arpatas who we met in the Kerikeri river. We unloaded our foldable bikes and were able to explore the area.
From there we only spent another week in the sounds. We had to get back up to Auckland to meet my parents who were flying in from Canada.
Our first crossing of Cook Strait was sunshine and unicorn rainbows and the second time crossing back over to North island was dark, black, caustic DEATH.
The crossing of the strait was adventurous but everything was under control. It was only after the crossing, when we tacked towards Wellington harbour, that shit hit the wall. There was 35 knots in our back coming slightly from port side and a strong current against us. 35 knots of wind vs. 5 or 6 knots of counter current. The conditions were horrible. The conditions changed so dramatically with a just a change in course. We were inching our way towards Wellington harbour so we started the engine for some help. It helped a bit. The conditions were the worst we have ever sailed in (maybe second to that time in Greece...45 knots...). There was so much water washing up on deck at one point it felt like someone was dumping huge buckets of water on the boat, hitting the dodger with so much force. It felt like Arbutus was nose diving into the 3 metre waves. Because of the conditions the visibility was shit so we were relying heavily on our instruments.
Since we left France in June 2013, I have never been scared while sailing Arbutus. Today was the first time I was scared. Paul was in the cockpit, wearing his foul weather gear and harness and I was inside sitting at the bottom of the companionway on the floor with my head on my knees, looking from time to time at the nautical charts on the computer and our boat speed. At one point when I looked at our speed we were going at 1 knot (1.8 km/h) and Paul was pushing the engine to it's max power. Which was also a first for us. With the VHF radio we called into Wellington Harbour Radio just as a precaution as we were entering the channel because visibility was so bad. For some reason I was expecting them to be surprised and even worried that an 11 meter pleasure craft was entering the harbour in these conditions. I was expecting them to ask if we needed any assistance... We have AIS and were emitting our position and speed...but I was surprised to hear a normal calm voice answering my call. He asked the normal questions of "number of persons on board, what are your intentions". Maybe it was a regular day in Windy Welly. We eventually made it into Evan's Bay and dropped anchor and the sun was shining...I guess it was shining the whole time we were in hell just couldn't see it through the massive sea state. We were a bit shaken up but safe and sound with no damage and slept like babies that night. Ok now I understand the nickname "Windy Welly".
Are you kidding me!! There was a nice southerly wind that could take us up to Tauranga if we left Wellington the next afternoon. So again, because of the weather we only stayed in Wellington for one day.
When we lifted anchor in the afternoon I was surprised to see so many boats on the water with their sails reefed and heeling like crazy. Some people sail for sport? What a concept...
Because we were on a schedule and had to meet my parents in Auckland we had to skip Gisborne and Napier again...We spent 3 nights on the water sailing north and wanted to see White Island just off of Tauranga. White island is New Zealand's most active volcano. and we could smell the sulphur as we approached. Super dramatic. I was hesitant to anchor overnight in the Lord of the Rings like ominous setting.
The next day we anchored at Moiti island and then hopped over to Tauranga Bridge Marina for 11 days. 11 days you ask? Why so long? Paul's favourite pass time is to ponder, "what else can I add to my toy (our home) to make it cooler". Staying warm is pretty cool. OKAYs, let me install an Eberspacher Air Heater and air ducts to disperse the hot air for the mild Auckland winter and our possible future passage to Alaska and Canada. OKAY good idea...how much is that going to cost?
Our noisy neighbours in Tauranga.
Climbing at Mount Maunganui.
While Paul was installing the heater I checked out the farmers markets and thrift stores. Op shops in Kiwi. We were so glad to have our foldable bikes with us in Tauranga as the distances were a bit long for us to walk, not to mention we had our bike bags to do our big grocery shops.
MOM AND DAD ARRIVE!!
Time to get moving back up to Auckland to meet my folks :) Momma and papa bear flew in from Canada and stayed for 3 weeks. It was their first time ever seeing Arbutus and experiencing our lifestyle. I booked them an AirBnb in Ponsonby for their first two nights knowing they would be seriously tired from the long flight. The next two nights they were prisoners in our V-Berth. Muwahahaha.
We were hesitant going out that day as there was 25 knots of wind in the forecast and for my parents this would be their first time sailing. I knew my dad would be fine as he is used to being on the water in his small fishing boat. But my mom...oh my oh my. She gets motion sickness worse than me. We decided to sail and mom and pops heaved themselves aboard and we were off to the races.
The wind was not too strong as we left the marina but, as we got out of sheltered Waitemata Harbour, more commonly known as Auckland Harbour, the winds picked up. To insure a comfortable sail with no casualties of seasickness we only sailed with the mainsail and engine which kept the boat steady. Much to my amazement mom didn't feel sick in the slightest.
The real fun began on the dinghy ride to land. Maybe it was the noisy outboard engine or the size of our small dinghy accommodating four adults that transformed them into little kids. Grinning and laughing and saying they felt like they were on the TV show Survivor?!?! Hahaha.
We just spent one night anchored at Waiheke island and the next afternoon we went back to Westhaven Marina because we had a flight to Christchurch the following day. Christchurch is the home to our dearest Canadian family friends. Our families were only two houses apart in Nanaimo, BC and I am only eight days younger than twins Leanne and Nicole. I think we met when we were six months old?!?!
After we landed we picked up the rental car, checked into our AirBnb, and bought some drinks for a BBQ dinner at Leanne's. Ahhhh what a reunion :) Was so good to catch up with everyone and meet Leanne's husband and two daughters. I wish my sister and brother were with us for this reunion.
Our Canadian family were so kind and took us on a tour of Christchurch and Lyttelton. We even had dinner at Brandon's home with his family. Brandon is Leanne and Nicole's older brother.
After spending 4 nights in Christchurch we dropped Paul at the airport as he was keen to start his job hunt. The Nagai's on the other hand were ready for their road trip from Christchurch to Auckland. Wahoo!!! A little less than two weeks with my parents in close quarters!!! Thank god for my dad and his relaxed and calming personality.
We visited Amberley, Kaikoura, Picton, Wellington, Taupo, and Rotorua. We stayed in cheap - moderately priced motels/hotels.
Most of the time the three of us slept in the same room and astonishingly I found out that now my mother snores!!! Her slightly annoying rythmic snoring coupled with my dad's chainsaw like thunderous snore, I had some sleepless nights getting out of bed EVERY FIVE mins to shove my dad. God I hope Paul doesn't start snoring when he gets older.
We had one last night in Auckland to celebrate my mom and dad's 35th wedding anniversary and enjoyed a delicious Japanese meal in Parnell. My parents flew out the next afternoon :(. As I get older the more I realize how important family is and I'm so grateful that I got to spend three weeks with my parents making sweet sweet memories.
LOOKING FOR A JOB?!?! WORKING AGAIN?!?!
Meanwhile on Arbutus, while the Nagai's were frolicking around New Zealand, responsible Paul was deep in his job hunt and already had some interviews. Within a few weeks he was hired by Derceto as a software engineer and acquired a 3 year work visa. This would be his first experience working in an English speaking environment. So proud of you Paul! I on the other hand had trouble passing my medical exam to acquire my easily attainable 23 month Working Holiday Visa. Long story short, don't give a urine sample near the beginning or end of your menstrual cycle and/or don't smoke dope, and drink plenty of fluids. After my fourth visit and third negative urine sample they sent my pee to a special lab to be tested...
Eight weeks later my visa was approved on May 31st!!! I didn't waste my time waiting for my visa and set up my profile on Upwork and got a few freelance graphic design jobs. I sent out my CV and was hoping for a positive response for a food photography position but it wasn't in the cards. I accepted a position as front desk agent for Waldorf Tetra Apartment Hotels and worked there for 4 months before transferring to the Reservations team for all six Waldorf properties in Auckland.
For the most part my work experience was positive and I will never forget the amazing, diverse, loyal, funny as hell team that I got to work with. I smiled, laughed, and joked around with my co-workers heaps. Sometimes it felt like I was back in high school.
We lived in Auckland from the beginning of April 2016 to the end of April 2018 and the time flew by. I think we were both happy to be settled in one place for an extended amount of time. We made friends, worked full time jobs, fell into routine, and explored this beautiful country. We felt useful, productive, and content.
During that time I had visits from my cousin Yukari and my sister :)
We were lucky to get a long term berth at Westhaven Marina and live on board Arbutus during our two years in Auckland. I thought we would rent an apartment but Arbutus is our home and with a new shower, hot water, heater, and shore power for my induction cooktop we had everything we needed on board.
In September we flew to Canada to see my little brother get married to his long time girlfriend Megan!
Paul wrote about these same days, in French, from his side of the boat. Read his account →
Your messages
Original comments, kept as they were.